Most wine drinkers have heard of Beaujolais, but many still avoid it because of the negative connotations caused by Beaujolais Nouveau a few years back. Always released on the third Thursday of November, this often barely drinkable “new” wine is made with grapes that were harvested just a few weeks earlier and it always hits American shores in time for Thanksgiving. Beaujolais’ poor reputation in the USA goes back to the 1980s, when a large producer in the region expanded the French tradition of rushing just-fermented wine—only eight weeks after the harvest—into the market in Paris. We have to admit, whenever we’re in Paris in November we enjoy tasting several wines and comparing various expressions from small winemakers, but the mass produced, and mass marketed Beaujolais Nouveau exported to America in the 1980s and 1990s hurt the category.
Wines from Beaujolais are made with 100 percent Gamay, a grape native to France that is a natural cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, a white grape that is nearly extinct. But beyond the use of Gamay there is little in common between fresh and fruity Beaujolais Nouveau and more serious oak-aged versions, especially from the 10 crus of Beaujolais. While most wines produced in Beaujolais are red and made from Gamay, there are also small quantities of rosé wines made from Gamay and white wines made from Chardonnay.
For the purposes of this article, we decided to focus only on Cru Beaujolais and have only included excellent wines from the villages that produce cru wines. The crus are located in the north of the Beaujolais region, just south of the Maconnais in Burgundy. There are 10 villages in total and here they are listed from north to south: St. Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly. Wines from these villages will be labeled with the village name.
We had 10 villages to choose from, but you’ll see that we have a few favorites. We’re big fans of Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, Côte de Brouilly, and Fleurie. If you’re still skeptical, here are seven wines that will change your perception.
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Chateau du Moulin-a-Vent 2020 La Rochelle Beaujolais Burgundy France
Named for the 300-year-old windmill that sits on top of Les Thorins hill, Chateau Moulin-à-Vent’s estate holdings total 90 acres of some of the area’s best vineyards. The Parinet family acquired the historic property in 2009 and have made numerous investments and improvements. We had the honor of having dinner with Édouard Parinet a few weeks ago and his La Rochelle 2020 was one of our favorites. It is garnet colored with aromas of red cherry, red plum, smoke, new car leather, and wet river rock. Silky tannins lead the way to flavors of ripe red fruits, crushed stone, and a touch of graphite in the long, long finish.
Buy Now: $80
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Domaine Jean Foillard 2022 Morgon Côte du Py Beaujolais Burgundy France
Jean Foillard is well known in his home region for fighting against mass-marketed Beaujolais and making delicious, terroir-driven wines. Many of his vineyards are on the slopes of the Côte du Py (or Py Hill) whose rocky, granitic soils impart a specific minerality to his wines. He sources grapes from the estate’s 35 acres and prefers to age his wines in older, multi-use barrels. This 2022 Morgon has aromas of red plum, red raspberry, and red cherry with a lifted whiff of finely ground white pepper. Suede-like tannins envelope flavors of bright red cherry and red currant that lead to a spicy finish.
Buy Now: $60
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Louis Jadot 2019 Château des Jacques Morgon Côte du Py Beaujolais Burgundy France
The venerable house of Louis Jadot purchased the historic Château des Jacques in 1996 and in 2001 acquired an additional 66 acres of vineyards in Côte du Py, Bellevue, and Corcelette, all in the Morgon AOC. They renovated and remodeled the winery in 2017 and are making some of the region’s most delicious and precise wines. Château des Jacques Morgon 2019 was fermented in vats for two weeks and then matured in oak barrels before bottling. It has aromas of red cherry, crushed river rock, and red currant with angular minerality on the palate and ripe red fruit flavors. There’s a bright splash of acidity before the persistent finish.
Buy Now: $52
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Domaine Labruyere 2020 Moulin-a-Vent Le Clos Monopole Beaujolais Burgundy France
Jean-Marie Labruyere purchased 25 acres of vines in 1850, making his winery one of the oldest in the Moulin-a-Vent AOC. Future generations were able to acquire vines right at the base of the historic windmill and create the Clos du Moulin-a-Vent, a much sought after monopole parcel. Jean-Marie’s direct descendent Edouard Labruyere took over management of the estate in 2008 and continues to make exceptional wines. His 2020 Le Clos Monopole has enticing aromas of crushed violet petals, Oolong tea, and ripe red cherry. It is full bodied with rounded tannins and flavors of black cherry, red raspberry, and a touch of pine tar in the finish.
Buy Now: $115
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Albert Bichot 2020 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine de Rochegres Beaujolais Burgundy France
The Bichot family moved to Burgundy around 1350 and in 1831 Bernard Bichot opened his eponymous wine merchant business. His grandson Albert Bichot took over the reins in the 1890s and built what was considered a modern winery at that time. Today Albéric Bichot represents the sixth generation and the family’s holdings total more than 250 acres of vineyards and six estates in five classic areas in Burgundy. The Rochegres 2020 has aromas of dried lavender, oak, red cherry, and red raspberry. It is full bodied with fine tannins and flavors of ripe red fruits, crushed violet petals, and wet river rock.
Buy Now: $54
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Domaine Lafarge Vial 2020 Fleurie Joie de Palais Beaujolais Burgundy France
Frédéric and Chantal Lafarge are well known for running the Lafarge family’s holdings in Volnay, but in 2014 decided to try their hand at making wine from Gamay in Beaujolais. They named their new 10-acre project Lafarge Vial using both Frédéric’s family name and Chantal’s maiden name. From the start they chose to farm using organic and biodynamic principles and are awaiting certification from various biodynamic organizations. They ferment 15 to 25 percent whole cluster which gives their wines characteristic bramble notes. The 2020 is garnet colored with aromas of ripe red cherry, red currant, and bramble with flavors of black cherry, red plum, and crushed river rock.
Buy Now: $51
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Château Thivin 2022 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie Beaujolais Burgundy France
Zaccharie and Marguerite Geoffray purchased Château Thivin with 12 acres of land in 1877, and since that time the winery has been under family management. Claude Vincent runs the estate today and has already brought his three grandchildren Nicolas, Tobias, and Florina into the business and under his wing. Château Thivin 2022 Cuvée Zaccharie is produced in homage to Zaccharie and it has enticing aromas of purple flowers, ripe cherry, and black pepper. The tannins are pleasantly grippy and support flavors of black cherry, red cherry, and dried lavender.
Buy Now: $79
