Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best new (and revamped) luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.
This is the ideal perch for F1 fans.
Courtesy of Raffles Al Areen Palace
In three words: Unexpected gulf oasis.
The basics:
Raffles Al Areen Palace is in the southern half of island nation Bahrain, which means it’s a fair drive to the main drags of Manama, but the F1 track that draws so much attention is right next door. It’s a series of 78 self-contained villas ranged on an almost 33-acre site, each with their own pool and indoor-outdoor dining areas (come summertime, the mercury can regularly hit six figures) There are one-, two- and three-bedroom configurations, though they’re very similar in layout. A former Banyan Tree property, it was gut-renovated for three years, reimagining every element before it reopened under the Raffles flag just under a year ago.
The best room:
Other than bedrooms, there’s not much difference between the villas here—but opt for one that’s closer to the main pool and building for convenience, but still tucked away, like 106 & 107 or 404 & 406.
The Rundown
78 self-contained villas vanish over a massive 33-acre site.
Courtesy of Raffles Al Areen Palace
Greeted by name at check-in?
Yes, and every time I encountered any staffer they knew who I was—no mean feat when there are almost 80 rooms and the property’s running at 70 percent occupancy, as it was when I was in residence.
Welcome drink ready & waiting? Bonus point if it wasn’t just juice.
Yes. A fresh pineapple, passion fruit and mint mocktail, but I was impressed when a bottle of my go-to Pinot Grigio arrived at my room after the GM spotted I’d always default to a glass of that white at meals.
Private butler in the room?
Yes. And Kavi was one of the best butlers I’ve encountered in years, a seasoned pro with more than a decade of experience. He was responsive via WhatsApp and thoughtful, too: On my last night, noticing I’d ordered Middle Eastern food at every meal, he offered to ask the chef to cook up a Bahraini dinner for me, with local dishes that weren’t on the menu. The result: a delicious assortment of spreads and dips plus an okra stew and chicken biryani-style main. It was the best last supper I could have imagined.
Sheet thread count 300 or higher?
Double that: 600-thread count Mascioni Hotel Collection sheets, and crisply comfy to boot. Shout out, too, to the monogrammed silky pajamas which I desperately wanted to slip into my bag to take home, as well as the faux leather slippers.
Heated floor in the bathroom or bidet? Or both.
Yes, there was a bidet; no five-star hotel in the region would design a bathroom without one.
Are the toiletries full-sized?
Yes. They’re the standard La Bottega Ortigia Ambra. It’s a pity there was only one set, though, as there were two showers—one indoor, one outside. It would have been thoughtful to leave toiletries in both and avoid having to cart them out to shower alfresco. If only I hadn’t be solo: The outdoor shower had two nozzles, not quite close enough to be intended for just one person.
Every room is the best room at this all-villa stay.
Courtesy of Raffles Al Areen Palace
Private pool for the room’s exclusive use?
Yes. Every villa comes with its own pool and Jacuzzi at its center, plus a daybed and towels. The main pool was splashier, with water features and a bar, and you can swim through to the indoor pool without leaving the water (another nod to midsummer’s scorching temperatures). Truly, though, there was never a need for a dip anywhere other than in complete privacy—since the walls around each villa were more than six feet high, you can skinny dip with abandon.
Worth spending Friday night in the lobby bar?
Yes, though it wouldn’t be Friday here—after all, the weekend starts on Thursday night. There’s a Writer’s Lounge, one of the Raffles signatures, with a pool table and a few armchairs. It’s no scene, this is a place you come to hide away rather than mingle, but it’s a relaxing alternative to the villa.
Caviar on the room service menu?
Yes. The special occasion menu features Kaviari Ossetra Caviar. A classic choice.
Would you buy the hotel if you could?
Yes. It’s not as conveniently located as some of the other luxe spots here, which are much closer to Manama and the old town, Muharraq, which is also the site of the airport. That’s partly the point, though: Coming to this property is about holing up, hiding out and unwinding. The service, design, and food were all top notch.
The Verdict
An under-rated top hotel in an under-rated oasis.
Courtesy of Raffles Al Areen Palace
Bahrain’s an underrated destination in the Gulf, overlooked by its flashier neighbors like Qatar or Dubai. It also has long associations with horse-racing (the royal family’s been breeding purebred Arabians for more than 200 years) and F1, not to mention being the source of the world’s best natural pearls, which thrive in the waters off its coast (cultured pearls were banned here in the 1920s, not long after the technique was invented). It’s also one of the more liberal regimes here, albeit with its own issues, and there’s a strong international vibe to everyday life (as a former British protectorate, English is widely spoken by almost everyone). The major market for this hotel is undoubtedly wealthy Saudis and expats living in the Kingdom, as Bahrain’s a short drive over a causeway for the weekend, but I’d strongly recommend it as part of any long-haul trip to the region.
Average daily rate: $897
Score: 10
What Our Score Means:
1-3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here.
4-6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.
7-8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms.
9-10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?
