Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.
In three words: Family-oriented, panoramic, squeaky-clean.
What’s the deal?
The Fullerton’s invitation to attend a “Panda Fufu Soft Toy T-Shirt Design Workshop” was the first indication that this vaulted, marble-paneled hotel provides a family-oriented luxury experience. The hotel is located near Ocean Park, where you’ll find a roller coaster, an elaborate water park, and real-life pandas.
Over breakfast, I heard an alarming thud. I looked up to see a boy of around 8 years old holding his head and muttering in Chinese. He had run full-speed into the giant glass panel, apparently rushing to the pool. Stunned, the boy looked at me and in English said, “I’m OK.” He walked off still holding his forehead. The incident is perhaps characteristic of life at the Fullerton, where there are no areas where children aren’t allowed. The hotel’s concern for parents extends to details like a lime-green plastic step stool at the marble bathroom sinks and matching plastic contraption hung from the faucet to bring water closer to a person of small stature. The panda pillows in the guest rooms even matched the rugs. Digital bulletin boards announce the third birthday of an honored guest; there’s a panda plush-toy vending machine in the lobby.
The hotel also offers amazing views over the South China Sea from floor-to-ceiling windows sure to win over adults—as will the buffets. Buffets are a religion in Hong Kong and the Fullerton’s is first-rate; at breakfast, the praline mille-feuille finger pastry dipped in fig compote is exquisite.
The best room: The hotel’s Penthouse Pool Suite, a 1,300-square-foot apartment with a lap pool overlooking the sea, is the top digs. But if you’re traveling with kids, and you want to honor their interests, you might consider the Rainbow Unicorn Room, the Panda Party Room, the Mermaid Princess Room, or—were I your 5-year-old son—the Hong Kong Safari Room.
The Rundown
Did they greet you by name at check-in?
Eventually, yes. I checked in on the later side, and yet there were many families lined up at check-in, toddlers twirling around or sacked out in strollers. I wandered over to the concierge service and asked if they could speed me along, and they did so with aplomb, apologizing for the influx of families for the weekend.
Welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived? (Bonus point if it wasn’t just fruit juice).
Teas, fresh fruit, cheeses, a Cantonese jelly desert of some kind, and a fully stocked fridge with more snacks, sodas, and adult beverages awaited me upon entering my room. I was lacking for nothing upon arrival.
Private butler for every room?
No, not private, but the level of service from all staff was such that a private butler would have likely been an inconvenience for everyone involved. Staff was polite, knowledgeable, and at the ready.
Is the sheet thread count higher than 300?
Most certainly. Exceptional bedding, and a pillow menu is on order for all rooms. The black-out shade worked a charm and didn’t flap around in the air-conditioning or otherwise annoy—a common complaint for electronically controlled units.
Is there a heated floor in the bathroom? What about a bidet?
No and no. The bathroom was floor-to-ceiling beige marble, matching the decor of the entire building, and appointed with separate tub, shower, and toilet areas. Water pressure was luxuriously full. Minus the panda rug, this was as luxurious as a bathroom gets, barring a private spa.
Are the toiletries full-sized?
Soaps, shampoos, and lotions were by Balmain. Refilled large dispensers in the shower and tub areas were accompanied by smaller containers at the sink. The products were lovely enough, and I appreciated the shaving kit, which I needed at that point. Extra points for a decent sewing kit—very old-school.
Is there a private pool for the room’s exclusive use?
Yes, if you rent the Penthouse Pool Suite. Otherwise there is an enormous infinity pool on the third-floor terrace, which was surprisingly not very crowded at any given time.
Is there caviar on the room-service menu?
No, there is not. Caviar is supplanted by a diverse menu offering a wide array of Chinese and western dishes, some oriented toward children. The food is top-notch all around at the Fullerton.
Is the restaurant worth its salt?
I experienced a surreal dinner at the in-house restaurant Jade, run by Michelin-starred executive chef Lai Ching Shing. He serves traditional Cantonese fare done at the highest level. My guests and I sat for a three-hour tasing menu, which included many foods I’d not eaten before—and may not eat again. The lack of explanation left us a bit mystified by most of the courses. It was only later that we learned that the clear gelatinous soup was traditional fish maw, or that the final course included an impenetrable jelly made from dates and a semi-sweet, room-temperature soup made from red beans—both, I later learned, traditional Cantonese deserts. All told, an unforgettable meal.
Do you want to spend Friday night in the lobby bar?
It wasn’t open very late and mostly served ice cream. The Fullerton seems to obey a child’s schedule, and this isn’t a hotel that caters to any of the activities I associate with Friday night in a hotel lobby. Better to rest up for the edutainment activities or a day at the amusement park.
Would you buy the hotel if you could?
The piece of property with its views, and the wonderful proximity to the Aberdeen Yacht Club next door suggest that this could be a luxurious address. In the other direction, however, is an amusement park, which might simply cancel out the yacht club access, leaving me to look elsewhere for my big hotel purchase.
The Verdict
Clearly I—a childless American middle-aged man—am not the target audience for the Fullerton at Ocean Park. However, I was witness to one of the most charming family gatherings I’ve ever witnessed: a woman’s 100th birthday party, for which it seemed an enormous entourage had gathered for celebration. Three, probably four, maybe five generations were in attendance, living the luxury life for the evening. The Fullerton seemed the ideal setting for this monumental celebration. Got kids and want a top-end Chinese experience in an utterly stunning location? Then definitely consider the Fullerton Ocean Park Hotel, Hong Kong.
Rates: From $300 per night
Score: 7
What Our Score Means:
1-3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here.
4-6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.
7-8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms.
9-10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?