It’s been more than 150 years since outlaw Jesse James and his brother Frank hid from the authorities on their uncle’s ranch in Paso Robles, but touches of the Wild West still remain in this Central Coast wine region, both in tasting room décor and in cowboy hats worn by winemakers and tourists alike. Midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, the Paso Robles AVA offers something for everyone, with over 60 grape varieties, 200 wineries, and a charming downtown that has accommodations to suit all tastes and an array of restaurants sure to please every palate. Although it is often overshadowed by its neighbors to the north, Paso Robles offers wine lovers a broad range of styles across the quality and price spectrum. A haven for working farmers and small family operations, 85 percent of Paso Robles wineries produce less than 8,000 cases (96,000 bottles) per year.
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History of Paso Robles
With an agricultural history stretching back thousands of years thanks to the native Salinan tribe, Paso Robles became a health-focused destination for those drawn to its natural thermal springs in the mid 19th century, shortly after European farming practices, cattle ranching, and winemaking were brought here by Spanish conquerors and missionaries. Known as “Almond City” in the mid-1800s because it had the highest concentration of almond orchards in the world, this agricultural region transitioned towards wine after famed Polish concert pianist and statesman Ignacy Paderewski, who was attracted by the area’s healing waters, acquired a 2,000-acre ranch and planted Syrah and Zinfandel grapes there. Granted formal AVA status in 1983, Paso Robles is Spanish for “pass of the oaks,” but we all need to resist the urge to add a Spanish flair to the pronunciation, as the locals say PASS-oh ROE-bulls. Today 40,000 acres of grapes are grown in a 953-square-mile area consisting of rolling hills and high mountain slopes.
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Paso Robles Climate and Geography
Situated on the Pacific Plate, Paso Robles’ vineyards rest on an ancient seabed that rose up millions of years ago. (The North American Plate is located just to the east, and the San Andreas Fault is the dividing line between the two plates.) Millions of years’ worth of sea creatures’ bones and shells, which are incredible sources of calcium, have been compressed through the ages to create the calcareous soils that the region is known for. There are 30 different soil types in Paso Robles, and calcareous elements can be found in many of them. Higher elevation vineyards are noted for calcium-rich limestone or shale on the surface, while lower altitude areas and rolling hills will have this buried further down. These components are recognized for their ability to retain water that is a much-needed part of the life cycle of the vine. With most of the region’s rain falling between November and April, soils with the ability to hold water through the growing season are the grapevines’ lifeblood. In addition, by limiting the amount of potassium that can be absorbed, calcium helps the grapes maintain a higher level of acidity.
Untold centuries of tectonic movement and geological uplift have created vineyard land facing in every possible direction. Varieties that need heat do best on south-facing slopes, which are sunny and warm, while grapes that require cooling down in the afternoon thrive on northeast-facing hillsides. Variations in aspect, soil type, elevation, and even differences in seasonal rainfall from east to west offer a wide berth of opportunities for different varieties to be grown here. This is also the reason that Paso Robles is subdivided into 11 American Viticultural Areas or AVAs. Approved in 2014, these AVAs were delineated by geographic boundaries that considered the natural diversity of the soils and other dominant conditions of each microclimate. The 11 distinct AVAs help to define which varieties are most successful in a particular microclimate, while the conjunctive labeling law ensures that the focus remains on Paso Robles due to the required presence of its name on all wine labels. These AVAs are Adelaida District, Creston District, El Pomar District, Paso Robles Estrella District, Paso Robles Geneseo District, Paso Robles Highland District, Paso Robles Willow Creek District, San Juan Creek, San Miguel, Santa Margarita Ranch, and Templeton Gap.
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Key Grapes Grown in Paso Robles
Among the 60 varieties grown here, Zinfandel has the longest history, with heritage vines dating back to the 1850s. The most widely planted grape here is Cabernet Sauvignon, which accounts for just over 50 percent of all the plantings in the AVA; many Cabernet vines dating to the 1950s and ‘60s, when growers began planting Bordeaux varieties including Merlot and Cabernet Franc. In the 1980s red Rhône varieties became popular here, including Grenache, Mourvèdre, and what is said to be the first Syrah planted in the state. Today these are vinified separately or together in what are known as G-S-M blends. White Rhône grapes followed shortly afterwards, especially Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne. Of course, America’s favorite white grape, Chardonnay, thrives here, as do small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc. Petite Sirah has a dedicated footprint in Paso Robles, as do European reds such as Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo. Considering the warmth of the region, it is unsurprising that Pinot Noir is only grown in small amounts, although versions coming from high elevation, north facing vineyards offer the cool-weather characteristics the variety is known for.
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Paso Robles’s Top Winemakers
Bottles to look for include L’Aventure Estate Reserve, a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, as well as Booker Fracture, a Syrah from Booker estate’s limestone soils. Linne Calodo In My Dreams, hailing from the Willow Creek District AVA, is made with Grenache, Tempranillo, Carignan, Graciano, Mourvèdre, and Tannat, while Maha Villa Creek Avenger is a Syrah-based blend featuring four additional under the radar varieties. One of the finest examples of the region’s most populous grape is J. Lohr Stairway Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, grown at high elevation in the Adelaida District AVA. Those wanting to sip a bit of history will enjoy Epoch Block B made with Syrah from the estate’s Paderewski Vineyard, while white wine lovers will delight in Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Tablas Blanc, made with six white varieties sourced via cuttings from the Château du Beaucastel estate in the southern Rhône Valley.
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Best Vintages From Paso Robles
A much smaller harvest than usual was the hallmark of 2022 because of a cool spring and extremely hot summer, but increased color and flavor intensity are noted. The summer of 2021 saw slightly lessened yields due to low rainfall in winter and a hot summer, but overall quality is very good. One of the best recent vintages was 2019, whose long, warm growing season created perfect conditions for ripening. Wines from 2018 benefited from what many consider a perfect growing season and are drinking perfectly now. If you find library vintages at restaurants or on winery websites, 2011, 2012, and 2013 were all considered excellent years; Bordeaux and Rhône varieties and other reds should still be drinking well.
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Fun Facts About Paso Robles
Image Credit: Brittany App -Tobin James Cellars’ wild-west themed tasting room is built on the site of a former stagecoach stop.
-In the 1920s and ‘30s the Pittsburgh Pirates held their spring training camp at Robbins Field, which is still used for local little league games.
-Ignacy Paderewski’s original 1920s vineyard, Rancho San Ignacio, is now Epoch Estate’s Paderewski Vineyard.
-Although Paso Robles boasts around 250 wine brands, there are only 180 “dots on the map,” or actual tasting rooms that you can visit to sample the region’s wares.
