Baker’s is the most under-appreciated member of the Jim Beam Small Batch Collection, something that I’ve argued should change with the re-release of the fantastic 13-year-old expression that came out this fall. On the heels of that whiskey comes another one, the new High-Rye Bourbon, an encouraging sign that this whiskey is getting some renewed love from the corporate overlords at Suntory Global Spirits.
Baker’s is named after Baker Beam, legendary master distiller Booker Noe’s cousin, who started out as a night watchman at the distillery, became a distiller in the 1970s, and retired in 1992—the same year that the Jim Beam Small Batch Collection launched. The other members of the Collection are Basil Hayden, Knob Creek, and Booker’s, all of which release a range of fantastic bourbons and rye whiskeys (the latter two in particular). Baker’s used to be a seven-year-old bourbon bottled at 107 proof, but it became a single barrel expression in 2019, the same year that special 13-year-old limited release joined the lineup.
This new bourbon is an interesting move from the folks at the James B. Beam Distilling Co., led by seventh-generation master distiller Fred Noe and his son, eighth-generation master distiller Freddie Noe. According to PR for the brand, the decision to release a high-rye version of Baker’s was based on Baker Beam running a trucking business that delivered grains to the distillery during his time working there. Sure, perhaps, but Jim Beam is known for making a few other high-rye bourbons—namely Basil Hayden and Old Grand-Dad. Basil Hayden is sort of the entry level bourbon in the Small Batch Collection, an 80-proof whiskey that is made using about twice as much rye as its siblings, which is said to be 27 percent. Old Grand-Dad is made using that same mashbill, and while there is an 80-proof expression of that label, there is also a strong 114-proof version and a bottled-in-bond 100 proofer.
According to the brand, Baker’s High-Rye Bourbon has twice as much rye as regular Baker’s, which would put it at just about the same mashbill as Basil Hayden and Old Grand-Dad. So how does it differ from those whiskeys? First of all, this is a seven-year-old single barrel whiskey, just like the core Baker’s expression. Also, Baker’s is aged in specific warehouses and levels within those warehouses, and it’s distilled to a lower proof than other expressions. All of these factors make Baker’s a very different bourbon from Old Grand-Dad and Basil Hayden, despite sharing what might be the same recipe. The bourbon is bottled at 107 proof, and official tasting notes describe charred oak, vanilla, and caramel on the nose, followed by charred oak, “brown sweets,” and rye spice on the palate.
Baker’s High-Rye Bourbon (SRP $75) is available now at liquor stores around the country, and you can find the core expression available to purchase at ReserveBar.
