This story is from an installment of The Oeno Files, our weekly insider newsletter to the world of fine wine. Sign up here.
Wine lovers whose palate runs toward Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are familiar with the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux, requested by Napoleon III, in which the 60 top reds of the region were ranked and subdivided into five crus, or “growths.” This rating system has stood the test of time, and today the top-tier members of this small grouping of châteaus produce some of the most sought-after wines on the planet. Many people may have only a passing awareness of four other classifications that were subsequently established: Crus Classés de Graves, Grand Cru de Saint-Émilion, Crus Artisans, and Cru Bourgeois de Médoc. The Cru Bourgeois is an evolving list whose recent update gives wine drinkers an insider’s view to some of the best Bordeaux that money can buy, many at accessible prices that are not usually associated with bottles from one of the world’s top wine regions.
Lest you think that this is some hip play on the overused word bougie, the term “Cru Bourgeois” goes back to the Middle Ages, when the bourgeois (citizens) of the bourg (city)of Bordeaux obtained the finest land in the nearby Medoc countryside. (Sidenote: While bourgeois has come to mean “middle class,” bougie is French for candle, and Americans’ use of the word to mean “upscale” or “fancy” can be a point of confusion for French speakers.) Established in 1932 and updated every five years since 2010, the 2025 Cru Bourgeois du Médoc Classification was revealed to great fanfare at the Wine Paris trade fair in mid-February. The AOC comprises eight appellations on the Cabernet Sauvignon–dominant Left Bank: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Saint-Estèphe. The classification includes 170 châteaus, with a total of 120 recognized as Cru Bourgeois, 36 that are awarded Cru Bourgeous Supérieur, and only 14 distinguished with the top designation, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. Due to this year’s more stringent requirements, there were fewer applications and there was a net loss of 80 châteaus from the 250 in 2020.
With over 6,000 wineries in 65 appellations, Bordeaux can be a confusing category for wine drinkers, especially when faced with dozens of lookalike bottles on a store shelf, so the 2025 Cru Bourgeois du Médoc helps cut through the fog and highlights the best of the best. It sets a high standard of quality that includes evaluation of vineyard and cellar management, harvest practices, vinification, bottling, labeling, and storage processes, all of which are assessed for quality control. Most importantly, a panel of sommeliers, MWs, winemakers, negociants, and top French wine journalists (all of whom go through a vetting process that includes testing their palate for consistency) blind-tasted the last five vintages of each wine. The jury is headed by Philippe Faure-Brac, one-time Best Sommelier in the World who is president of the French Sommelier Association.
In an effort to attract younger consumers who value sustainability and transparency, producers must have environmental certifications that demonstrate a commitment to conserving resources and preserving the Earth. For those whose leisure time includes wine country travel, the Superieur and Exceptionnel levels also consider the overall visitor experience at each château, including public facilities and hospitality options. Armelle Cruse, owner of Château du Taillan (which achieved Exceptionnel status) and vice president of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois, believes that updating the classification every five years is important because it challenges the members to improve their winery and wine quality in order to rise to a higher level. Static classifications don’t offer insight into how a winery may have changed over time, so a more dynamic system is better for consumers, especially one that puts weight on tasting recent vintages. “The classification is a guarantee of quality for the consumer,” Cruse says. “A Cru Bourgeois has been tasted by professionals who certify the quality level of the wine.”
The lay of the land
Surprisingly, many of the top wines in the grouping sell for around $50 a bottle, some for even less. Bear in mind that these wines have been scrutinized by some of France’s top wine experts. Jury head Faure-Brac explains that blind tasting is crucial in the certification process because it ensures impartiality and eliminates any bias or preconceived notions based on the producer or label. “It allows the jury to judge the wine only on its merits, focusing purely on its quality and characteristics,” he says. “It maintains the integrity of the classification and ensures that only the best wines are selected.” And tasting not just one but five vintages from each château allows the jury to assess consistency and “helps ensure that the property is not only producing quality wines in a single vintage but also maintaining a high standard over time.” Each wine is evaluated through a meticulous collective tasting regimen, assessing its balance, quality, and consistency, and only 22 percent of the wines from the Médoc production area are included.
The wines we tasted in Paris were from 2019 and 2020, both of which were excellent vintages. Standout pours included Château La Branne, Château D’Arsac, Château Le Crock, Château Paveil de Luze, Château Mongravey, and Château du Taillan. What really struck us across the board was the combination of bold-fruit and soft-spice flavors with elegant tannins and well-integrated acidity. Marguerite de Luze, proprietor of Château Paveil de Luze, doesn’t believe that these wines need to be cellared for additional maturity or saved for holidays and anniversaries. “I think our wines are more approachable,” she says. “You don’t have to wait for a special occasion; without the weight of ‘pride’ it’s easier to crack open a bottle.” On the other side of the coin, Château La Branne winegrower Vincent Videau thinks that despite the emphasis on drinkability, his wine and others in the classification will age gracefully for up to 15 years.
Wineries earning the Cru Bourgeois designation affix a special sticker to the bottle and include their level of classification on the front label. So even if you happen upon a château you don’t know, the stamp and label can guide you to a great wine. With that in mind, the next time you are scouring a wine list or looking for a wonderful-yet-affordable Bordeaux to bring home, talk to your sommelier or look for the Cru Bourgeois designation on the label. You’ll be glad you did.
Do you want access to rare and outstanding reds from Napa Valley? Join the Robb Report 672 Wine Club today.
