The sport climbing competition is coming to a close at the Paris Games with athletes celebrating the decision to separate the speed discipline from boulder and lead.
The sport made its Olympic debut in Tokyo three years ago and awarded only one medal each for the men and women, combining the results from all three disciplines in an unpopular decision.
It was like having a “sprinter only competing in the decathlon,” said Austrian climber Jakob Schubert, a lead and boulder specialist. It’s “almost like different sports,” he added.
“The decision was just really beneficial for everyone,” Schubert said. “These disciplines are just not really connected. So I think it really made sense. And I think every athlete was happy.”
While the speed discipline is more about power and explosiveness — a “mix of climbing and athletics,” as Schubert noted — the lead and boulder are more about technique and problem solving.
In speed, climbers have to go up a 15-meter (49-foot) wall as fast as possible while competing side-by-side against an opponent. In boulder, they face short technical routes on a 4-meter (13-foot) wall, having to overcome the most “problems” in the lowest number of attempts. In lead, climbers need to go as high as they can on a 15-meter (49-foot) wall within a 6-minute time limit.
The decision to separate the disciplines allowed athletes to focus on their strengths and ultimately improved the overall performance of athletes. It was noticed through a high number of world records broken in Paris.
“Definitely makes a big difference,” American boulder and lead specialist Colin Duffy said. “Speed took a decent chunk out of our training, just learn how to do it, and then from there, make progress. So I think the level of the sport has really increased in the last three years as people are starting to specialize more.”
Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland won the speed event in Tokyo three years ago with a world-record time but missed out on the podium with a fourth-place finish after the results were combined with lead and boulder.
“That speed was separate doesn’t mean that it was easier,” Miroslaw said after winning the speed gold in Paris this week.
There is talk of possibly also splitting boulder and lead for the Los Angeles Games in 2028, adding a third medal to sport climbing. It would not mean such a drastic change as now, as the disciplines are more connected than they are with speed, but some climbers already said they would welcome another medal opportunity.
“We have had World Cups and world championships in all three disciplines for the longest time,” Schubert said. “So I think it’s fine to have a combined, but you still need a medal in each discipline.”
American Sam Watson won the bronze medal in speed in Paris while twice breaking the disciplines’ world record. He said the high-level performances shown at the 2024 Olympics were a reflection of athletes being allowed to focus on their strengths.
“I think the idea of having its own model definitely incentivized that and allowed speed and bouldering lead to have their own positive platforms, and I’m really happy that’s the case,” he said.
The sport climbing competition ends Saturday with the final for boulder and lead.
