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Most people know the outstanding white wines produced in France’s Loire Valley, but many have not had the opportunity to become great lovers of the reds made here. Two of our favorites from the Vallée de la Loire are Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. Pinot Noir is made in an elegant, medium-bodied style in Sancerre and Reuilly, where its soft tannins and light color have much in common with locally grown Gamay, but are worlds apart from over-extracted New World versions. Because the Loire has traditionally been colder and wetter than Burgundy it has always been difficult for winemakers to produce high quality Pinot Noir wines, but as the climate trend has been towards warmer and drier growing seasons, we are now seeing many high-end Loire Valley Pinot Noirs that showcase flavors of cherry, raspberry, and baking spices.
Cabernet Franc has been grown here for over 700 years and generally does very well. One of Cabernet Sauvignon’s parents (its mate is another Loire Valley staple, Sauvignon Blanc), Cabernet Franc from the Loire is known to produce well-structured wines with complex berry flavors and touches of smoke. It thrives in the Chinon, Saumur-Champigny, Bourgueil, and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellations, and while it is mainly used as a blending grape farther north in Bordeaux, it is the star of the show here.
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Chateau de Fosse-Sèche 2019 Gondwana Rouge Saumur Loire France
Vines were first planted at Fosse-Sèche over 800 years ago by the Benedictine monks who lived here. They also dug tunnels that ran almost three miles underground from the chateau to the church in which to store their wines as well as move secretly from one place to the other. Chateau de Fosse-Sèche 2019 Gondwana Rouge is Cabernet Franc-based and has aromas of Bing cherry, red raspberry, and black currant with balanced acidity and soft tannins leading the way to flavors of red plum, cassis, and black pepper.
Buy Now: $90
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Domaine Vacheron 2020 Les Marnes Sancerre Rouge Sancerre Loire France
Cousins Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique Vacheron run Domaine Vacheron, and which was certified biodynamic by Biodyvin in 2005. They have 84 acres of Sauvignon Blanc and 27 acres of Pinot Noir which they only harvest by hand and fertilize with estate-made compost. Their winemaking techniques skew more towards Burgundian style, and we feel these two young winemakers are ones to watch for future accolades. Their 2020 Pinot Noir Les Marnes Sancerre Rouge is Pinot Noir based and has delightful aromas of freshly picked red cherry, cranberry, and pomegranate that transform to ripe red fruit flavors on the palate. It has excellent, sturdy, well-structured tannins and balanced acidity.
Buy Now: $89
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Clau de Nell 2020 Cuvée Violette Anjou Loire France
Anne Claude Leflaive and her husband Christian Jacques first visited Clau de Nell in 2008 and eventually purchased the estate from the young owners. Today their three daughters work in the wine trade and maintain a foothold in the family business. Theirs is one of the few estates to grow both Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in the region. Their Clau de Nell 2020 Cuvée Violet has aromas of graphite, black currant, and black raspberry with flavors of red plum, cassis, and red currant sheathed in velvety tannins.
Buy Now: $56
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Charles Joguet 2020 Chinon Clos de la Dioterie Touraine Loire France
The Joguet family can trace their history in the area back to 1830, but their Clos de la Dioterie vineyard goes back an additional 200 years. Located in Sazilly, the vineyard is planted entirely with Cabernet Franc. Charles Joguet took over the family property upon his father’s death in 1957 and ran it for years with his mother Madame Veuve Joguet-Malécault. The family’s Chinon Clos de la Dioterie has aromas of red fruit confiture, cassis, and a touch of cedar incense. It is soft but full bodied and has excellent tannic structure that supports flavors of cherry, black raspberry, and red plum.
Buy Now: $56
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Alphonse Mellot 2022 La Moussière Sancerre Rouge Sancerre Loire France
The local town registry shows that Alphonse Mellot’s family history dates to the 16th century with an important designation in the 17th century when César Mellot was appointed as Louis XIV’s wine advisor. More recently winemaking at the estate has been under the direction of 18th- generation Alphonse Mellot Sr. and 19th-generation Alphonse Jr. In our opinion the father and son team make some of the best wines in Sancerre and we look forward to each new release. The family’s 2022 is garnet colored in the glass with aromas of black raspberry, red currant, ripe cherry, and finely ground black pepper. It is well rounded with soft tannins and flavors of vanilla, brown baking spices, cassis, and red plum.
Buy Now: $55
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Vincent Gaudry 2022 Sancerre Les Vignes de Chavignol Rouge Sancerre Loire France
Winemaker Vincent Gaudry likes to take a spiritual approach to making wine. His zodiac sign is Scorpio, and he likens it to a sharp sign like the flint in his vineyards. He also likes to think of himself as an “intersection of the vertical lines that irrigate the soil and the horizontal lines that feed it.” All this said, we appreciate his fresh take on making wine and are big fans of those he produces in the Loire Valley. His 2022 Sancerre Les Vignes de Chavignol Rouge has aromas of cranberry, pomegranate, and black cherry that transform to juicy flavors of cherry, red plum, and cinnamon in the midpalate. Balanced with well-structured tannins, it leaves a lasting impression on your palate.
Buy Now: $125
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Thierry Germain Domaine des Roches Neuves 2020 Saumur-Champigny Franc de Pied Saumur Loire France
Located in the village of Varrains Domaine des Roches Neuves is in the heart of the Loire Valley and only three miles from Saumur, this domain’s vineyards consist of 61 different blocks which cover almost 70 acres. Soils are composed of limestone, sand, chalk, and clay which accumulate water reserves to be used during the dry season. Thierry Germain’s 2020 has aromas of cassis, finely ground black pepper, cherry, and mocha that lead to flavors of black raspberry, black plum, and dark chocolate with soft, silky tannins in the midpalate and a nice long finish.
Buy Now: $59
