Japanese whisky may not be as exorbitantly expensive and highly collectible as it was a few years ago, although there are glaring exceptions like the recent 40-year-old Hibiki from Suntory Global Spirits. Overall, the category has calmed down a bit–which is a good thing for whiskey fans–but there are still some rare and remarkable bottles hitting the market. The latest is part of a collection called the Ghost Series, and it consists of whisky from one of up-and-coming Japanese distillery Kanosuke.
The Ghost Series was created by writer and Japanese whisky expert Stefan Van Eycken over a decade ago in 2013, and over the past 22 releases it has featured whisky from some of Japan’s most revered ghost distilleries like Karuizawa, Hanyu, and Kawasaki. The 23rd release in the series is a trio of whiskies selected by Van Eycken and a few others that come from Kanosuke, a newer and very much alive distillery that has been releasing some interesting expressions like the Pot Still Grain Whisky that we reviewed very favorably last year. This is actually the second time Kanosuke has been part of the Ghost Series–the first was in 2018 when a three-year-old single cask malt whisky finished in a chardonnay cask was released.
“Kanosuke Distillery is truly one of the most exciting and innovative distilleries in Japan, and was the first craft distillery to develop a core range of single malt, pot still, and blended whiskies, which consistently surprises and inspires,” said Van Eycken in a statement. “My goal through this first-ever trifecta series with Kanosuke, whose evolution over seven years is nothing short of astonishing, is to continue to surprise connoisseurs with the innovative spirits that are unique to this range.” The first single cask expression is a pot still grain whisky from Kanosuke’s sister distillery Hioki that was aged in a new American white oak puncheon and bottled at 64 percent ABV. We were able to get an early sample of all three whiskies, and this one has notes of vanilla, pepper, orange zest, and hot cinnamon on the palate. The second is another pot still grain whisky from Hioki aged in an ex-bourbon barrel and bottled at 64 percent ABV. This whisky has notes of honey, brown sugar, maple, pecan, and apricot jam on the palate. Lastly, there’s a “Double Distillery” whisky, a blend of Kanosuke single malt and Hioki single grain that was finished for ten months in a plum wine cask from the Komasa Jyozo shochu distillery. This was bottled at 61 percent ABV and has notes of cherry, stone fruit, rock candy, and apple on the palate.
Each of the bottles features has a label with renderings of the “New Thirty-Six Ghosts” wood block series by 19th century artist Yoshitoshi Tsukioka. There are 200 bottles of the first two whiskeys and 570 bottles of the third that will be available in the U.S., but you’ll have to go to a high-end bar or restaurant to get a taste because the brand decided to limit it to on-premise accounts.
