Two tenets that bear repeating when it come to whiskey: Age doesn’t mean quality, and neither does proof. A bourbon in the range of about six to eight years old and somewhere between 90 and 100 proof are often the sweet spots, two entirely subjective beliefs that you can and should feel free to disagree with. Over the past few years, we have seen some whiskeys rocketing into hazmat territory (above 140 proof), with the latest from the World Whiskey Society clocking in at a staggering 160 proof. It has us wondering if this actually enjoyable to drink. We were able to try a sample to find out.
Whiskey is usually proofed down with water before being bottled to a minimum of 80 proof or 40 percent alcohol. Seasoned whiskey drinkers often avoid bourbon or rye at that lower strength, arguing that the dilution really reduces the flavor of the whiskey. That is true, but there is an art and purpose to proofing down a whiskey and dialing in the specific ABV to unlock certain flavors. Barrel-proof or cask-strength whiskey in all categories is fun to try, and sometimes very good. But bourbon or rye that gets into mouth-scorching hazmat territory starts to feel like an exercise in masochism, or maybe just a way of showing just how “whiskey” you really are.
The new release in question comes from the non-distilling producer World Whiskey Society. It’s called Wyatt Earp 13-Year-Old American Whiskey Hazmat Edition, part of the brand’s series of sourced American whiskeys. If the bottle shaped like a revolver ready to unload in your face doesn’t scare you off, perhaps the 160 proof might. Remember, that’s 80 percent alcohol (the sample I got to try was actually higher at 164.67 proof). This whiskey is not a bourbon; instead, it’s made from a pretty unusual mashbill of 73 percent malted barley, 14.9 percent malted rye, and 12.1 percent malted wheat. “This latest release is truly pushing the boundaries of what whiskey can be,” said World Whiskey Society CEO Alex Kogan in a statement. “It is best suited for those who truly appreciate intricacy and intensity, and it embodies the spirit of Wyatt Earp–bold, unapologetic, and legendary.”
Yes, but is it good? Honestly, who knows? Sure, there are some flavors evident here like cinnamon, vanilla, oak, and dried fruit, but overall this is all about the intense alcohol burn. After all, what else can you expect from a whiskey this strong? The liquid in this bottle is well over two-thirds alcohol, and I’m just not sure that is something that you should drink and will actually enjoy if you do. Try diluting it with water if you like to see what that does to it, but I have a feeling there are plenty of people who will buy this bottle who will scoff at that notion (at their peril).
If you want to try this whiskey for yourself, it might be a little hard at the moment because Wyatt Earp 13-Year-Old American Whiskey Hazmat Edition (SRP $250) is currently sold out on the brand’s website. It will likely be available from secondary retailers in the months to come, however, and if you’d like to try other World Whiskey Society expressions you can find them available to purchase from Total Wine now.
